![6.4l with egr remover will it still start 6.4l with egr remover will it still start](https://www.bcdiesel.ca/images/thumbs/0032801_egr-cooler-delete-kit-intake-manifold-ford-2008-2010_500.jpeg)
- 6.4l with egr remover will it still start install#
- 6.4l with egr remover will it still start driver#
- 6.4l with egr remover will it still start free#
These vehicles are equipped with an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) module with an integrated cooler. Laguna Hills, CA - NovemBMW of North America, LLC (BMW) is recalling certain models over fire risk. I can fit this myself.BMW Recalls nearly 45,000 Vehicles Due to a Potential Coolant Leak. Supply and fit ive been quoted 250£ which isn't bad from a main dealer when the part itself is 184£. Mazda BT50 UN 3.0 Litre Diesel Engine: WEAT, WEC - EGR COOLER $ 511.50 Includes GST Add to cart Mazda BT50 UP 3.2 Lt Diesel 5 CYLINDER Engine: P5AT - EGR COOLER ASSEMBLY $ 396.00 Includes GST Add to cart Nissan Pathfinder, Navara D22, D40 YD25 - EGR COOLER ASSEMBLY $ 760.00 Includes GST Add to cartThe egr valve is gunged up too so it will be hard for me to convince them. The prices for brand new EGR valves are usually kept within a range. Q: How much does it cost to replace the EGR valve? The new EGR valve can costs an average of $67, depending on the vehicle’s model and manufacturer.Took me about 3 hours due to the learning curve and beer drinking, but it could be done in less thanks to this write up. Tighten up the three nuts to secure the cooler. Tighten them down good to prevent exhaust leaks, but be careful not to break them off.
6.4l with egr remover will it still start install#
Install the left bolt, install the right stud, install the two nuts on the right stud. Put the gasket on the engine side of the plate - very important.
6.4l with egr remover will it still start free#
Get the exhaust gasket out of there, add the plate to it, you can see these holes, so you can free float it in there to align it. It was hard as hell to get a gap here too, but not quite as hard as the fender one. Then use a 13mm socket to remove two nuts off the right stud (yellow in the picture), then use their supplied E7 torx socket to remove the stud. Then use a 12 point 8mm socket to remove the left bolt (red in the picture). There are three nuts that secure this cooler, loosen all those (I circled one of them in blue in the picture). Remember, plate on the left, gasket on the right. Tighten down the two nuts that you loosened earlier that secure the cooler. Tighten down the two bolts real tight so you won't have an exhaust leak, but don't break them off. Just trying to free float it in there will cause you to want to get kicked in the nuts. Line up the top bolt holes inside the flange, go ahead and get the top bolt started, then push the plate/gasket down until it lines up with the bottom. After more cussing and beers, I found a better way to install the plate/gasket. I had hell getting the gasket/plate/flange to line up for the bolts with the small amount of room to work with and not being able to see the holes. The gasket does have to go toward the rear of the truck from the plate you're about to install. I don't know if it makes a difference which side faces which side, but look at it anyway. There is an exhaust gasket in the gap, so make sure you see which direction it's pointed when you get it out. I tried all sorts of things, but that's all I could get to work. After a lot of cussing and beers, I used a 36" pipe wrench on the exhaust side from under the truck and ratchet strapped it to the rear of the truck, creating a small gap. I broke mine trying to get a gap in the flange - that's how hard mine was to move. You have to create a very small gap in the flange to install the plate. They're also hard to get to - will need an extension for the socket and a deep socket. That is supposed to allow the cooler to move a little better, but mine was still hard as hell to move. Loosen the two nuts that clamp the cooler down. Mine came loose after a few rounds, and I used my fingers for the rest of the way. Remove the two flange bolts - they're hard to get a socket wrench on, and there's not much room to move it anyway. I used the ratchet strap to pull the cooler toward the front, although I don't think it helped at all, and the left over slack to tie the wiring back. You have to take out the fenderwell, no way around that. Take your tire off, you'll hate your life if you don't. Here is what I did to help with the mess. It's hard to get to due to wires, power steering lines, and very little room in general.
6.4l with egr remover will it still start driver#
Here is the driver side where you have to install the horizontal cooler plate. Well done Cobbs! :Cheer: It has two plates, detailed instructions, and an E7 torx socket.
![6.4l with egr remover will it still start 6.4l with egr remover will it still start](https://cdn.drivingline.com/media/711663/006-ram-3500-cummins-diesel-egr-cooler.jpg)
Lucky for you, I did a write up that might help you not make mistakes I made. :bang I finally got the little ****ers in there, but some things you just have to learn as you go. Let me go on record saying if I had the option of doing this install again or getting kicked in the nuts twice, I'd take the pain from the nut kicks. I finally got around to installing my block off plates I got from Cobb's Diesel Performance.